Food Art From Bengal: Goyna Bori

As Nilina Ghosh deftly moved the piping bag filled with lentil paste over a plate neatly covered with poppy seeds, the 바카라�naksha바카라� (Bengali for 바카라�design바카라�) began to take shape. First, she drew a few concentric circles and then filled in the vacant space with more geometric patterns. After adding a flourish of curlicue along the outer edge, she stopped. The simple circle now looked like a beautiful pendant fit for a bride. No wonder, this very edible artistic piece is called 바카라�gohona bori바카라� or 바카라�goyna bori바카라� (바카라�gohona바카라� or 바카라�goyna바카라� meaning jewellery in Bengali) in West Bengal, a specialty of its Purba Medinipur district.

바카라�Bori바카라� making, undertaken by the women of the household, was once a common winter ritual followed in many Bengali homes. Even a few decades ago, it was one of the household arts that girls of marriageable age were supposed to master. Even today, women follow the rules of having a bath and wearing fresh clothes before commencing on the task. Before starting to make 바카라�bori바카라� for the household, women undertake a ritual involving the wedding of the 바카라�bori바카라� 바카라� where two specially made large pieces are covered with vermillion and offered prayers.

Traditionally, it was a manual process. Usually, a paste was made of 바카라�biuli바카라� or 바카라�kolai바카라� dal (Bengali for 바카라�urad바카라� dal). Seasoning was added to the batter, which was whisked by hand to make it light and fluffy. Then, by using the fingers, blobs of it would be delicately placed on a clean piece of cloth or an oiled plate in a particular fashion. The blobs would be left in the sun to dry. When dry, the blobs would be circular in shape with a wee conical tip. The expertise lay in perfecting the shape. The 바카라�bori바카라� would be stored around the year to be eaten as fries and added to a variety of dishes. Bori may also be made from 바카라�masoor바카라� and 바카라�matar바카라� dal. Sometimes 바카라�chalkumro바카라� (ash gourd/바카라�petha바카라�) is added to the batter 바카라� this is known as 바카라�kumro bori바카라�.

Although nobody can say for sure how and when the humble 바카라�bori바카라� went the designer way, the fact remains that it came to be known as 바카라�gohona바카라� or 바카라�goyna바카라� bori owing to its similarity with intricately designed jewellery. A specialty from the Midnapur region of West Bengal, it has been in existence for a long time now. Nobel laureate poet Rabindranath Tagore and artists like Abanindranath Tagore and Nandalal Bose too set great stores by these highly decorative food items, writes food expert Utsa Roy in the book 바카라�Culinary Culture in Colonial India바카라�. The 바카라�goyna bori바카라� owing to its size is eaten fried.

바카라�However, with urbanisation and due to lack of time, the making of 바카라�goyna bori바카라� is a dying art,바카라� said Mrinal Mandal, artist and founder of Chalchitra Academy, who had organised the workshop that winter morning 바카라�to revive the forgotten culinary art of rural Bengal.바카라�

바카라�Usually, the bori making takes place in winter,바카라� said Sucheta Mandal, another teacher at the workshop and a resident of Midnapur town, 바카라�because the weather has to be cool and dry바카라�.  바카라�Whisking the batter to the right consistency is also important to make the perfect bori,바카라� she explained. 

The making of 바카라�goyna bori바카라� is slightly different. A plate layered with poppy seeds is used to arrange the bori바카라�. 바카라�One, it prevents the bori from sticking to the plate, and two, the thin layer of poppy seeds sticking to the bori gives the latter an extra crunch,바카라� said Mandal. Some substitute poppy seeds with sesame. The design starts from the centre and moves outwards. Technology has made its inroads in this once totally manual process. The paste may be made in a household mixer and poured into a piping bag. In the rural areas, where piping bags are not common, the top of a toothpaste tube is snipped off, cleaned and ,used as a nozzle attached to a piece of cloth folded in the shape of a cone. Sometimes, a clean stick or a knitting needle is used to make the lines sharp and clear.

Along with Ghosh, who comes from Tamluk town, Mandal made beautiful patterns without referring to any kind of drawings or cheat sheets. Therefore, every 바카라�bori바카라� was unique in design. The shapes varied from circles to paisley to tear drops, to name a few.

Although a seasonal product, the 바카라�bori바카라� usually stays good for almost a year if it is kept in airtight containers and in absolutely dry condition. However, its brittleness is a deterrent to packing it for marketing. If you are lucky, you may find it being sold in local fairs and markets in West Bengal. Otherwise, you have to find out a friend or a relative who knows a 바카라�goyna bori바카라� maker.