Art & Entertainment

Fashion Unlimited: Sikh Community Gives Pugree Jewel-In-The-Crown Treatment

The Pugree or the turban is a gift of the Sikh gurus. Fashion designers are having a ball playing around with colour, textures and styles

Fashion Unlimited: Sikh Community Gives Pugree Jewel-In-The-Crown Treatment
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J.J. Valaya바카라™s Tips For A Dapper Pugree

  • Experiment with ­colours and let them express your ­personality
  • Try prints, but not so bold that they clash with your outfit
  • Always tie a turban, say no to the ­ready-made mare바카라™s nests
  • The proportions of the pugree should suit your face바카라”too large or small looks clumsy
  • Wear your pride on your turban. It shows in your demeanour

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Striped turbans pinned  with feathers and brooches, lavishly embroidered sherwanis and gloved hands commanding majestic swords바카라”the portraits of the modish rulers of Kapurthala are invariably a sartorial treat. Before Independence, the royal families of Patiala and Kapurthala were forerunners in fashion and luxury, and among the early patrons of labels like Louis Vuitton and Cartier. Maharaja Jagatjit Singh of Kapurthala, an avid traveller and Francophile, sported Louis XV-style wigs, dazzled in Cartier jewellery and travelled with over 60 Louis Vuitton trunks. Cartier designed the legendary Patiala necklace in 1928, especially for Bhupinder Singh of Patiala state. It had 2,930 diamonds and Burmese rubies, including the world바카라™s seventh-largest diamond at the time, De Beers, as its centrepiece.

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A century later, chic Sikhs are ­upholding their traditions of sartorial excellence while incorporating the latest trends. And at its crown lies the turban바카라”the pugree바카라”one of the 바카라˜five Ks바카라™, the religious symbols ­enjoined by Guru Gobind Singh in 1699. 바카라œThe sense of regality and splendour notwithstanding, ­a ­pugree offers a fantastic opportunity to make a statement through its varied textures, colours and styles,바카라 says Sikh fashion ­designer J.J. Valaya. 바카라œWe are developing some beautiful prints for our collection of turbans and are keenly looking forward to their introduction.바카라

바카라œThe turban is a gift of our gurus. It inculcates a sense of pride and strength, and also endows a ­responsibility to care for and share with others. Even now, people feel safe in the presence of a turbaned Sikh바카라 says Harinder Singh, founder of 1469, a 15-year-old conceptual brand that celebrates Punjab, its culture, language and heritage. The name derives from the birth year of Sikhism바카라™s founder, Guru Nanak, and takes inspiration from the concept of oneness he propounded. The brand retails T-shirts, the traditional phulkari ­embroidered garments of Punjab, and Gurmukhi calligraphy on stone, fabric and paper.

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In Vogue

Wedding attire designed by Harinder Singh and Kirandeep Kaur of 1469

Photograph by Ananya Abrol

바카라œOne should choose the length and width of the turban on the basis of one바카라™s height and face type. You can opt for either solid colours or patterned fabric. While many like to emulate the pugree style of their relative or a famous personality, the latest craze is vintage phulkari patterns digitally printed on voile,바카라 adds Harinder.

But how does he like to wear his turban? 바카라œMy  ­pugree makes my personality. I like to play with the colours of nature in my turban wardrobe바카라”of the 146 I own, more than 30 are shades of green. Phulkari print pugrees make me feel special,바카라 he replies. 바카라œUnder the turban, Sikhs wear a small band. I experiment with colour combinations of my pugree and the band underneath, which is visible as a small triangular patch on the forehead.바카라

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Urban Turban

Designer and model Maninder Singh

Photo by Tribhuvan Tiwari/Outlook

Harjas Singh, a model and stylist, says, 바카라œI put a lot of effort into accessorising and incorporating turbans into all my outfits. The turban is my identity and allows me to stand out in a crowd.바카라 He feels the turban is not only a ­religious injunction, but also a conversation starter. 바카라œIt바카라™s an opportunity to educate and spread awareness about a religion that is often misunderstood,바카라 he explains.

For travel photographer Param­veer Singh, turbans have been a constant companion on his journeys. 바카라œI wear the brightest hues when I travel. People come up and ask if they can get clicked with me. It is a great ice-breaker when you are in a foreign country.바카라 He dons his ­pugrees in the Patiala Shahi style for a clean, professional look, though he also likes the wattan wali style, which is more crumpled.

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Paramveer Singh

There are four main kinds of Sikh turbans바카라”patka, dhamala, pagri and keski. Kids usually wear patka, a one-metre-long cloth that ties the hair in a bun on top. Nihang warriors sport the dhamala, a double-length turban of more than 10 metre that is well-rounded and eschews sharp points. Keskis are smaller turbans.

Regarding the different styles of pugrees, designer, photographer and model Maninder Singh elaborates, 바카라œSikhs wear diverse kinds of turbans and within each, there바카라™s a lot of differentiation based on personal preferences. The dimension and type of fabric also matter when tying a particular ­pugree. Although I can tie eight kinds, gol dastaar and UK style are my favourites.바카라

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Vish Singh

But it바카라™s not only Sikh men바카라”women also sport the religious headgear. Indian-American Sikh filmmaker Harpreet Kaur says, 바카라œEveryone is donning the turban, from models in Gap ads and Nikhil & Shantanu바카라™s collection to ­actors in Hollywood and Bollywood. For me,the turban is a source of courage and confidence, and a constant reminder of our great history.바카라 Singer Harshdeep Kaur considers the turban an integral part of her identity and always wears it during performances.

For Sikh women, however, style doesn바카라™t end at the turban. Sonia Khurana, a Delhi-based designer, ­explains that elaborate Patiala salwars and phulkari dupattas  are the hallmarks of fashion. 바카라œShort-fitted kurtis with pleated P­atiala salwar and flowing phulkari dupatta is a signature style. Among youngsters, Sikh fashion is more a ­fusion of traditional fabrics with a contemporary look. A Patiala salwar, for instance, can be clubbed with a peplum top. Phulkari dupattas are teamed with a lehenga choli.바카라

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Harinder Singh with wife Kirandeep Kaur

Photo by Tribhuvan Tiwari/Outlook

The Patiala suit, consisting of a salwar and kurti, has its fans in the film industry too. 바카라œI love Patialas for their comfort and style,바카라 says actor Rakul Preet Singh. My aunt used to live in Patiala and for ­weddings, I used to get a Patiala suit stitched in Patiala.  I feel that a well-fitted Patiala suit is the sexiest outfit for a woman.바카라

Another enthusiast of the Patiala suit is Divya Dutta. 바카라œI am not a Sikh, but I know the traditions well,바카라 the actor says. 바카라œI love their rich culture, dance forms and elaborate costumes. Sardars, with their sharp features, look like maharajas. Both Sikh men and women are remarkably good looking.바카라

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